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Hernekeitto, Finland’s beloved pea soup, is a dish that wraps you in warmth from the very first spoonful. Thick, hearty, and deeply comforting, it is a staple of Finnish kitchens especially during the colder months. Traditionally served on Thursdays, Hernekeitto is more than a meal. It is a cultural ritual that speaks to the heart of Finnish life.
Made with green peas and flavoured with ham or pork, this simple yet satisfying soup holds a cherished place at both home tables and school canteens. It is a dish built on patience, often simmered for hours to achieve the perfect texture. The result is a filling, wholesome meal that has been loved for generations.
What Is Hernekeitto?
Hernekeitto is a thick green pea soup, traditionally made from dried peas, slowly cooked until they break down into a creamy, textured broth. Ham hock or chunks of smoked pork lend a rich, savoury depth, creating a flavour that is both rustic and deeply satisfying.
In Finland, it is not just about the soup itself. Hernekeitto is often enjoyed with a dollop of strong mustard stirred through at the table, and usually followed by a dessert of oven-baked pancakes with jam. This combination has become an iconic Thursday tradition throughout the country.
Despite its humble ingredients, Hernekeitto manages to deliver a complex balance of flavours. Each bowl tells a story of care, simplicity, and resilience, values deeply rooted in the Finnish way of life. It is the kind of food that nourishes body and soul alike.
Ingredients and Taste
Hernekeitto is made from dried green peas, water, and pork, seasoned with salt and a few aromatics such as onions and marjoram. Some versions might include root vegetables like carrots, but the star remains the earthy, mellow flavour of the peas.
The soup is hearty without being heavy, with a thick, creamy texture that develops naturally as the peas break apart during slow cooking. The smoky richness from the pork melds beautifully with the sweetness of the peas, creating a warming and deeply savoury experience.
The mustard, often served on the side, cuts through the richness with a sharp tang, adding a bold contrast that lifts the entire dish. Every spoonful brings a satisfying depth that makes Hernekeitto a reliable comfort, particularly during long, cold winters.
A Taste of History
The tradition of eating Hernekeitto on Thursdays dates back to medieval Catholic practices when Fridays were reserved for fasting. A heavy, protein-rich meal like pea soup helped carry people through the following day’s lighter eating requirements.
As time moved on and religious customs relaxed, the Thursday pea soup habit remained, becoming ingrained in Finnish culture. It is now a widespread tradition found in homes, schools, army barracks, and even parliamentary restaurants.
Hernekeitto is more than just a dish in Finland. It is a symbol of community, consistency, and a slower way of life that values the comfort of shared meals. It represents the kind of food that endures because it speaks to something timeless in the human spirit.
Finnish Hernekeitto (Pea Soup)
Ingredients
- 300 g dried green peas preferably Finnish field peas or split peas
- 1.2 litres cold water
- 400 g smoked ham hock or smoked pork shoulder
- 1 large onion finely chopped
- 1 medium carrot peeled and diced
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 tsp dried marjoram
- ½ tsp ground white pepper
- 1 tsp salt adjust to taste
- 2 tbsp Dijon or strong Finnish mustard to serve
- Fresh rye bread and butter optional, for serving
Instructions
- To begin, rinse the dried peas thoroughly under cold running water. Place them in a large bowl and cover with plenty of water to soak overnight. This softens the peas, ensuring even cooking and a creamy texture.
- The next day, drain and rinse the soaked peas. In a large heavy-based pot, add the peas along with 1.2 litres of fresh cold water. Bring the pot to a gentle boil over medium heat, skimming off any foam that rises for a cleaner, clearer broth.
- Once the foam has been removed, add the smoked ham hock to the pot. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook uncovered for 1 hour. Ensure the water maintains a soft bubbling, not a rolling boil, to avoid breaking the peas too early.
- After an hour, stir in the finely chopped onion, diced carrot, and bay leaf. Continue to simmer, stirring occasionally to prevent the peas from sticking to the bottom of the pot.
- At this stage, add the marjoram and white pepper. These herbs lend the traditional mild aromatic depth to Hernekeitto. Adjust the heat if necessary to maintain a gentle simmer.
- Continue simmering for another 1 to 1.5 hours, until the peas have softened fully and begun to break down, forming a thick, hearty consistency. Stir now and then to prevent scorching.
- Carefully remove the ham hock from the pot. Shred the meat into bite-sized pieces, discarding any skin, excess fat, or bone. Return the meat to the soup, stirring to distribute it evenly.
- Taste the soup and add salt if needed. Some smoked meats can be salty already, so always season towards the end. If the soup becomes too thick, thin it with a little hot water to reach your preferred texture.
- Ladle the hot soup into bowls. Serve traditionally with a generous spoonful of strong mustard on the side and slices of buttered rye bread. Garnish with a sprinkle of marjoram if desired for extra fragrance. Hernekeitto tastes even better the next day as the flavours deepen.