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Manestra from Istria is a bean stew that feels both homely and thoughtful. Served in deep bowls, it brings a gentle warmth, the kind that suits rain, wind, or a calm evening by the sea. Each spoonful carries comfort, yet it still leaves room for nuance and surprise.
You will meet it in konobas across the peninsula, where pots rest on gentle heat while life rolls on. Locals treat it as friendly fare for guests and family alike, a meal made to be shared and savoured without fuss.
What keeps people returning is the way simple ingredients become something layered and graceful. Beans, potatoes, and seasonal greens sit with olive oil and herbs, forming a broth that tastes honest and quietly generous.
Want to dive deeper into Croatian Cuisine? Don’t miss our post on Traditional Croatian Foods to Try
What Is Manestra?
Manestra is a bean-based stew enriched with vegetables and cured meats. White beans form the foundation, simmered slowly until tender. The dish takes its time, allowing flavours to develop and strengthen.
Smoked meats such as pancetta, prosciutto bones, or sausages are often included, not only for flavour but also for nourishment. Their savoury depth lingers in the broth, giving the stew a grounding richness.
Unlike lighter soups, Manestra is hearty enough to stand as a main meal. It is served in deep bowls, steaming hot, often with bread on the side to soak up the last traces of broth.
Ingredients and Taste
Borlotti or pinto beans give a creamy base, while potatoes thicken naturally. Onions, garlic, and celery form the backbone, joined by carrot and tomato for sweetness. Olive oil ties it together; bay leaf, pepper, and parsley add fragrance without overshadowing the beans.
Many households add cured pork, often a prosciutto bone or smoked bacon, to lend depth and a gentle savour. Where fish is close, cooks may use anchovy to season the pot. Vegetarian tables rely on extra olive oil and a longer simmer for richness.
The flavour is layered yet clear. Beans bring earthiness; tomato lifts with soft acidity; herbs keep the finish bright. Good Manestra tastes balanced, with a velvety broth that clings to pasta or bread. A drizzle of olive oil and cracked pepper at the table seal the deal.
A Taste of History
Manestra speaks of Istria’s crossroads, where Italian and Slavic kitchens meet, and Venetian trade once shaped daily cooking. It echoes Italian minestrone yet keeps a local identity, guided by olive groves, small vineyards, and the habit of cooking what the season allows.
Corn arrived through maritime routes and settled into farm cooking, which is how maneštra od bobići became a warm weather favourite. Prosciutto curing left bones that went into the pot, a thrifty practice that turned leftovers into flavour.
Families cooked large batches during harvest or olive pressing, letting the pot bubble while work continued. Stew was practical, nourishing, and welcoming to guests. Neighbours still pass down methods, from soaking beans to judging when the texture is just right.
Today you will find Manestra in home kitchens, seaside konobas, and agroturizam farm stays. Chefs may add a modern twist, yet the heart of the dish holds steady; patient simmering, simple produce, and a bowl that invites bread, wine, and conversation.
How to Make Manestra (Bean Stew)
Manestra is a hearty Istrian bean stew rooted in rural tradition, often simmered slowly to bring out deep, rustic flavours. Expect a thick, nourishing dish built on beans, smoked meats, and vegetables. The slow cooking allows the flavours to meld beautifully. See the recipe card at the bottom for printable directions
Ingredients
For the stew
- 300g dried borlotti beans (soaked overnight)
- 200g smoked pancetta or smoked pork ribs
- 1 smoked ham hock (around 500g)
- 2 medium carrots, diced
- 2 celery stalks, diced
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
- 2 tbsp tomato paste
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 tsp sweet paprika
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 2.5 litres water or light stock
- Salt and black pepper to taste
For serving
- Crusty bread
- Olive oil for drizzling
Cooking Instructions
Step 1: Prepare the beans
To begin, drain the soaked borlotti beans and rinse well under cold water. Set aside while preparing the other ingredients. Transition to starting the base of the stew.
Step 2: Build the flavour base
In a large heavy pot, warm olive oil over medium heat. Add chopped onion, celery, and carrot. Sauté gently for 6–8 minutes until softened and fragrant. Stir in minced garlic, cooking briefly. Move to adding smoked meats.
Step 3: Add smoked meats
Place pancetta and ham hock into the pot with the vegetables. Cook for 5 minutes, allowing the fat to render and the meat to release its smoky aroma. Proceed to seasoning and tomato paste.
Step 4: Stir in tomato paste and paprika
Mix in the tomato paste and sweet paprika, stirring well to coat the vegetables and meat. This step develops colour and depth. Transition to adding beans and water.
Step 5: Add beans and liquid
Add the drained beans, bay leaves, and enough water or stock to fully submerge everything. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Skim any foam that rises. Proceed to long simmering.
Step 6: Simmer the stew
Cover partially and simmer gently for 1.5–2 hours, stirring occasionally. Add more water if the stew becomes too thick. Continue until beans are tender and meat begins to loosen from the bone. Transition to adding potatoes.
Step 7: Add potatoes
Stir in diced potatoes and cook for a further 25–30 minutes until tender. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Move to preparing for serving.
Step 8: Finish the stew
Once beans and potatoes are soft, remove the ham hock, shred the meat, and return it to the pot. Discard the bone. Stir through to combine all flavours evenly. Transition to final garnishing.
Final Step: Serve hot
Ladle Manestra into deep bowls. Drizzle with a little olive oil before serving alongside crusty bread. Presentation tip: serve in clay bowls for authentic rustic charm.
Variations and substitutions
- If borlotti beans are not available, use kidney beans or cannellini beans.
- Smoked ham hock can be substituted with smoked turkey leg or beef shank for different regional twists.
- Vegetarian version: omit smoked meats, add more beans, and use vegetable stock with extra paprika and bay leaves for flavour.
Cooking Tips for Perfect Manestra
- Always soak dried beans overnight to reduce cooking time and ensure even texture.
- Keep the simmer low to allow flavours to meld without breaking down the beans too quickly.
- Use smoked meats sparingly; they should complement rather than overpower the stew.
- For a thicker stew, mash a small portion of the beans and stir back into the pot.
Croatian Manestra (Bean Stew)
Ingredients
For the stew
- 300 g dried borlotti beans soaked overnight
- 200 g smoked pancetta or smoked pork ribs
- 1 smoked ham hock around 500g
- 2 medium carrots diced
- 2 celery stalks diced
- 1 large onion finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves minced
- 2 medium potatoes peeled and diced
- 2 tbsp tomato paste
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 tsp sweet paprika
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 2.5 litres water or light stock
- Salt and black pepper to taste
For serving
- Crusty bread
- Olive oil for drizzling
Instructions
- To begin, drain the soaked borlotti beans and rinse well under cold water. Set aside while preparing the other ingredients. Transition to starting the base of the stew.
- In a large heavy pot, warm olive oil over medium heat. Add chopped onion, celery, and carrot. Sauté gently for 6–8 minutes until softened and fragrant. Stir in minced garlic, cooking briefly. Move to adding smoked meats.
- Place pancetta and ham hock into the pot with the vegetables. Cook for 5 minutes, allowing the fat to render and the meat to release its smoky aroma. Proceed to seasoning and tomato paste.
- Mix in the tomato paste and sweet paprika, stirring well to coat the vegetables and meat. This step develops colour and depth. Transition to adding beans and water.
- Add the drained beans, bay leaves, and enough water or stock to fully submerge everything. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Skim any foam that rises. Proceed to long simmering.
- Cover partially and simmer gently for 1.5–2 hours, stirring occasionally. Add more water if the stew becomes too thick. Continue until beans are tender and meat begins to loosen from the bone. Transition to adding potatoes.
- Stir in diced potatoes and cook for a further 25–30 minutes until tender. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Move to preparing for serving.
- Once beans and potatoes are soft, remove the ham hock, shred the meat, and return it to the pot. Discard the bone. Stir through to combine all flavours evenly. Transition to final garnishing.
- Ladle Manestra into deep bowls. Drizzle with a little olive oil before serving alongside crusty bread. Presentation tip: serve in clay bowls for authentic rustic charm.
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