To begin, preheat your grill to medium-high heat (around 180°C/350°F). Meanwhile, clean the fish thoroughly, ensuring all scales and insides are removed. Pat the fish dry with paper towels. This step ensures the salt crust sticks well to the fish.

Prepare the fish by stuffing the cavity with aromatic lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and lime wedges. This infuses the fish with a fragrant, citrusy flavour as it grills, which complements the salty crust.

In a large bowl, take the coarse sea salt and mix in a tablespoon of water to slightly moisten the salt. This will help it adhere to the fish more effectively, forming a tight, protective crust that locks in moisture during grilling.

Gently rub the fish with vegetable oil to help prevent the salt from sticking to the skin when served. Then pack the moistened sea salt all around the fish, covering it completely in a thick layer. If using banana leaves or foil, wrap the fish before placing it on the grill to add an additional layer of flavour.

Place the salt-crusted fish on the preheated grill. If you are grilling directly, ensure the grill grates are well-oiled to prevent sticking. Grill the fish for about 20-30 minutes per side, depending on the thickness of the fish. The salt crust should harden and turn slightly golden.

While the fish is grilling, prepare the dipping sauce. In a small bowl, mix fish sauce, lime juice, palm sugar, chili, garlic, and cilantro. Adjust the balance of sweet, salty, and sour flavors to your preference. Set aside.

Once the fish is fully cooked (the flesh should be opaque and easily flake with a fork), carefully remove it from the grill. Let it rest for a few minutes before gently cracking and peeling off the hardened salt crust. Discard the crust but leave the aromatic stuffing inside the fish for added flavour.

To serve, transfer the fish to a platter and accompany it with the prepared dipping sauce. Pla Pao pairs wonderfully with sticky rice or steamed jasmine rice, and a side of fresh vegetables such as cucumber or Thai basil. The dipping sauce provides an essential tangy and spicy contrast to the delicate, smoky fish.