To begin, preheat your oven to 180°C (160°C fan). Lightly grease a medium baking dish and set it near the hob so you can assemble while everything is warm. Move on to mixing the crêpe batter next.

In a large bowl, whisk the flour and salt, then whisk in the eggs followed by the milk to form a smooth batter. Stir in the sparkling water and 1 tbsp oil, then rest for 15 minutes so the flour hydrates and the crêpes cook evenly. While it rests, start the filling.

Warm 2 tbsp lard or oil in a pan over medium heat and cook the onion with a pinch of salt until soft and golden. Add the garlic for 30 seconds, keeping it fragrant rather than browned, then move straight on to seasoning the meat.

Stir in the chopped cooked meat, then take the pan off the heat and mix in the sweet paprika (and hot paprika if using) so it blooms without turning bitter. Return to low heat, stir in tomato purée, add 150 ml stock, and simmer 5 to 8 minutes until moist but not soupy. Spoon the filling into a bowl and keep warm while you cook the crêpes.

Heat a lightly oiled non stick frying pan over medium heat. Pour in a small ladle of batter and swirl to coat thinly, then cook about 45 to 60 seconds per side until just set and lightly coloured. Stack cooked crêpes under a clean tea towel to keep them soft, then move on to the sauce.

In a saucepan, warm 1 tbsp lard or oil, whisk in the flour, and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat, whisk in the sweet paprika, then slowly whisk in 250 ml stock until smooth. Return to gentle heat and simmer 2 to 3 minutes until lightly thickened, then take it off the heat before adding sour cream.

Whisk in the sour cream until silky, then return to very low heat just to warm through. Add lemon juice if you like, and salt to taste. Keep the sauce warm but never boiling, then start filling and rolling the crêpes.

Place a crêpe on a board, add a line of filling down the centre, fold in the sides, and roll into a tidy parcel. Arrange seam side down in the baking dish and repeat until all are filled. Spoon most of the sauce over the top, saving a little for serving, then move on to baking.

Bake for 12 to 15 minutes until hot throughout and the sauce looks slightly set on top. If the surface dries, spoon on a splash of stock or a little extra sauce, then get ready to serve.

Serve two hot crêpes per person with extra paprika sour cream sauce spooned over, and a scatter of parsley if you want colour. A simple cucumber salad or mixed pickles sit well alongside and cut through the richness, and a final pinch of sweet paprika on top makes the plate look properly Hungarian.